Perugia, Italy | A Hidden Gem in Umbria

Perugia

Scott and I recently visited Perugia, the capital of Italy’s Umbria region, a place I hadn’t heard much about before this trip. It’s every bit as beautiful as Tuscany but a little less accessible, which means it’s also far less touristy. The result? A slower pace, more authentic experiences, and prices that make you smile. A glass of wine for two dollars, incredible food that feels like a secret, and views that look straight out of a painting.

Perugia is filled with medieval architecture, winding streets, charming shops, and food that will make you swoon. It’s also famous for its chocolate, especially the iconic Perugina Baci. We chose this city because it’s close to where my cousin Dan recently moved. He bought a magnificent villa just outside Perugia, complete with an incredible restaurant space he’s restoring. If all goes well, he’ll be hosting pizza-making classes soon. He’s a New Yorker who started recreating the foods he missed while living in Hawaii, and his homemade bagels and pizzas have left their mark all over the world. Our kids still talk about eating his pizza in his Kauai kitchen nearly 10 years ago.

Our first night, the hotel suggested a dinner spot we never would have found on our own. To get there, we walked through ancient underground tunnels that the city has modernized with escalators to carry you up the steep hillside. It was such a striking blend of old and new. One moment you’re underground, the next you’re stepping into an ancient town square.

The next morning, Dan picked us up and spent the day showing us around Umbria, a region that truly feels like the green heart of Italy. Picture rolling farmland, vineyards, mountains, and hilltop towns like Spoleto, where we crossed the Ponte delle Torri, a medieval aqueduct that feels impossible to believe was built centuries ago.

Umbria / Ponte delle Torri

As if we had planned it, Perugia was hosting a wine festival that weekend. The streets were lined with tasting booths and local vineyard owners pouring their wines. One producer told us his vineyard makes olive oil for airlines. Those tiny bottles you sometimes get on flights may very well be his.

And that smell. The whole town in the evening, wood-fired pizza ovens warming up, mixed with the sweet scent of chocolate drifting through the air. I told one of my kids I wished I could bottle it. Part cozy ski lodge, part candy shop. By night, Perugia comes alive with university students filling the piazzas, music playing, laughter echoing off the stone walls.

If you’re ever in Florence, it’s just a 1.5 to 2 hour train ride away, and well worth it. We can’t wait to go back.