Fika, Beets and Meatballs: Our Swedish Adventure

On our recent trip to Stockholm, the food itself became an adventure. Swedish cuisine is full of seafood, pickled flavors, and plenty of dill which I enjoy, but Scott… not so much.

We sampled the classics: pickled herring, plenty of smorgasbord-style open-faced sandwiches often crowned with tiny pink shrimp, and of course Swedish meatballs served the traditional way with mashed potatoes, lingonberries, and rich gravy. I loved them so much I had them twice in one day. It’s basically Thanksgiving dinner, but swap the turkey for meatballs and add a sweet-savory twist.

A smorgasbord is the heart of traditional Swedish dining. It’s a table laid out with many small dishes: breads, cheeses, shrimp, smoked fish, pickled vegetables, meats and spreads. I loved piling my plate with the different bites, while Scott mostly stuck to the simpler ones.

One of the standouts for me was the pickled herring. It’s tender and briny with a little sweet-and-sour tang, often served with thin-sliced onion or dill. I tried every version I could find from mustard-marinated to wine-brined and I honestly enjoyed them all.

The funniest moment came at a restaurant that featured tableside beet service. Think guacamole made at your table, but with beets. The mix included chopped beets, gherkins, raw onion, parsley, mustard, capers, a house-made mayo, hot sauce, and other tangy surprises… basically a list of all the things I love and Scott avoids.

And of course we had to try Sweden’s famous cardamom bun, not a Danish pastry even though it looks a bit like one. These soft, fragrant rolls, called kardemummabullar, are a staple of “fika,” the Swedish ritual of pausing each afternoon for coffee and a sweet treat. We even found the best spot in town to enjoy ours by the water, and it was worth every step to get there.